Although cloudier and cooler than waters off the Florida Keys and the Caribbean Islands, offshore areas along the Outer Banks offer unique scuba-diving experiences in "The Graveyard of the Atlantic."

The area owes its moniker to the more than 1,000 shipwrecks (at least 200 named and identified) whose remains rest on the ocean floor from Corolla to Ocracoke. Experienced divers enjoy the challenge of unpredictable currents while exploring beneath the ocean's surface. From 17th-century schooners to World War II submarines, wreckage lies at a variety of depths, in almost every imaginable condition.

Some underwater archaeological shipwreck sites are federally protected and can be visited but not touched. Others offer incredible souvenirs for deepwater divers: bits of china plates and teacups, old medicine and liquor bottles, brass- rimmed porthole covers, and thick, hand- blown glass that's been buried beneath the ocean for more than a century. If you prefer to leave history as you find it, waterproof cameras bring back memorable treasures from the mostly unexplored underwater world.

Sharks, whales, dolphins, and hundreds of varieties of colorful fish also frequent deep waters around these barrier islands. The northernmost coral reef in the world is off Avon. Submerged Civil War forts are scattered along the banks of Roanoke Island in much more shallow sound waters.

Dive-boat captains carry charter parties to places of their choosing. Some shipwrecks have become popular with scuba divers and are among the most frequently selected sites. The freighter Metropolis, also called the "Horsehead Wreck," lies about 3 miles south of the Currituck Beach Lighthouse off Whale- head Beach in Corolla, 100 yards offshore and in about 15 feet of water. This ship was carrying 500 tons of iron rails and 200 tons of stones when it sank in 1878, taking 85 crewmen to a watery grave. Formerly the federal gunboat Stars and Stripes that worked in the Civil War, this is a good wreck to explore in the off-season. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, you can drive up the beach and swim out to this shipwreck site.

Off the shores of Kill Devil Hills, an unidentified tugboat rests about 300 yards south of Avalon Pier, approximately 75 yards off the beach, in 20 feet of water. Two miles south, the Triangle Wrecks-Josephine, Kyzickes, and Carl Gerhard-sit about 100 yards offshore, about 200 yards south of the Sea Ranch Motel, in about 20 feet of water. These vessels sank in 1915, 1927, and 1929, respectively. You can access these wrecks by boat or swim from the beach.

Nags Head's most famous dive site is the USS Huron, a federal gunship that sank in 1877, taking 95 crewmen to the bottom. This wreck is about 200 yards off the beach at MP 11, resting in an estimated 26 feet of water with many salvageable artifacts. The tugboat Explorer is nearby.

Long known as the East Coast's most treacherous inlet, Oregon Inlet rages between Bodie Island and Hatteras Island. It's infamous for the hundreds of ships-and scores of lives-that it has claimed through the ages. The liberty ship Zane Grey lies about a mile south of this inlet in 80 feet of water. A German sub sank northeast of the inlet in 100 feet of water in 1942. The Oriental has been sitting about 4 miles south of Oregon Inlet since sinking in 1862; its boiler is visible above the surf. Most of these dive sites can be accessed only from boats.

About a mile north of Rodanthe Fishing Pier, 100 yards offshore, the LST 471 lies in only 15 feet of water. This ship sank in 1949 and is accessible by swimming from shore. Nearby off Rodanthe, about 22 miles southeast of Oregon Inlet, the tanker Marore is approximately 12 miles offshore. It sank when torpedoed in 1942 and lies in about 100 feet of water.

Experienced deepwater divers enjoy the Empire Gem, a British carrier that sank in January 1942, torpedoed by a German U-boat. This shipwreck sits about 17 miles off Cape Hatteras in 140 feet of water and was one of the first vessels to go down in these waters in World War II. It, too, must be reached by boat.

Learning to Dive

Unlike other water sports, scuba diving isn't something you can learn on your own. You have to be certified to do deep dives. This takes special training by certified instructors-and practice in a pool. Average recreational dives are 80 to 100 feet deep, while extreme divers reach depths of more than 300 feet. There are dangers associated with such deep dives, however. Every seasoned diver knows the perils associated with the sport: the potential for death in underwater caves, shark attacks, and the hazards of surfacing too fast and being afflicted with "the bends." Divers universally agree, however, that the thrill and tranquillity of deep-wreck diving justify the risks.

Several Outer Banks dive shops offer lessons, advanced instruction, and the equipment you'll need to get started. This is a relatively expensive sport. Divers say it takes at least $1,500 just to get the necessary tanks, hoses, wet suits, and other paraphernalia to take the first plunge. Dive boat charters, which all dive-shop workers help arrange, begin at about $550 per day, depending on how far offshore you want to go.

Some dive shops can also recommend shallow dive spots that you don't need a boat to get to, as well as nearby- shore or sound areas that you can explore with a face mask and snorkel. All Ocean Atlantic Rentals locations rent fins, masks, and snorkels (call 252-261-4346). The National Park Service has sporadic snorkeling adventures along the Cape Hatteras National Seashore in the summer. Call (252) 473-2111 for tour times and information.

Before You Dive

Sir Walter Raleigh's explorers first sailed along these shores more than four centuries ago. Private sailboat owners have long enjoyed the barrier islands as a stopover while en route along the Intracoastal Waterway. Many sailors have also dropped anchor beside Roanoke or Hatteras Islands-only to tie up at the docks permanently and make Dare County their home.

Until recently, you had to have your own sailboat to cruise the area waterways. Now, shops from Corolla through Ocracoke rent sailboats, Hobie Cats, and catamarans to weekend water enthusiasts. Others offer introductory and advanced sailing lessons. Some take people who have no desire to learn to sail on excursions across the sounds aboard multipassenger sailing ships. Ecotours, luncheon swim-and-sails, and sunset cruises have become increasingly popular with vacationers. From 40-passenger catamarans sailed by experienced captains to pirate- like schooners carrying up to six passengers to single-person Sunfish sailboats, you can find almost any type of sailing vessel you desire on these barrier islands.

Unlike loud motorized craft, which pollute the water with gasoline, sailing is a clean, environmentally friendly sport that people of all ages enjoy. You can sail slowly by marshlands without disturbing the waterfowl or cruise at 15 mph clips in stiff breezes. It all depends on your whim-and the wind.

If you've never sailed before, don't rent a boat and try to wing it. Winds in this area are trickier than elsewhere and either increase in intensity or shift direction without a moment's notice. If you get caught in a gale, you could end up miles from land if you don't know how to maneuver the vessel. A two-hour introductory lesson is worth the minimal investment to learn basic sailing skills such as knot tying, sail rigging, and steering.

Sailors with basic on-water experience manage to navigate their way around the shallow sounds. All boat passengers should always wear a life jacket.

Prices for sailboat cruises depend on the amenities, length of voyage, and time of day. Midday trips sometimes include lunches or at least drinks for passengers. Some sunset tours offer wine, beer, and appetizers. Almost all of the excursions let people bring their own food and drink aboard, and some even accept dogs on leashes. Special arrangements can also be made for disabled passengers. Prices generally range from $30 to $60 per person. If you'd like to book a boat for a private charter for you and your friends, some captains also offer their services along with the sailboats, beginning at $50 per hour per vessel.

Lesson costs, too, span a range, depending on how in-depth the course is, what type of craft you're learning on, and whether you prefer group or individualized instruction. Costs start at $10 and go to $50 per person. Call ahead for group rates for more than four people in your party.

If you'd rather rent a craft and sail it yourself, Outer Banks outfitters lease sailboats by the hour, day, or week. Deposits generally are required. Costs range from $25 to $60 per hour and $50 to $110 per day. Most shops accept major credit cards.

Kitty Hawk Watersports
NC 12, Corolla
(252) 453-6900
www.kittyhawksports.com